Granny's curry

 There will be those who scoff at the “recipe” below, on the grounds that it is inauthentic. Nothing like what I would eat in an Indian restaurant here, it is true, but I am bound to say that I have eaten something very similar in India itself. My grandfather was born in Bangalore (as it was then called) where “Bolst’s” was founded: that company was responsible for its mild curry powder and its mild mango pickle. The curry powder is still easy to find; the pickle less so.

This is, of course, a meal memorable for having been part of my childhood. My mother, no mean cook herself, used to enjoy “Granny’s watery curries”. According to Granny, it was my mother who first taught her about the use of onions in cooking. Granny was not an adventurous cook, but I cannot recall ever not enjoying a meal prepared by her. And she introduced me to many culinary techniques. Although teased about her repeated insistence on adding “just a little sprinkle” of sugar to meals, it was she who persuaded me that a squeeze of lemon juice on countless savoury dishes would improve them.

Here, then, is her recipe, possibly never written down, for beef curry.

Three tablespoons Bolst’s curry powder

1 large onion.

1 clove garlic.

500g stewing beef or beef mince.

3 fresh tomatoes.

3 large carrots.

: large potatoes.

1 tin chopped tomatoes.

Salt and pepper.

Olive oil to fry.

Fry the meat. Set aside.

Fry the curry powder, dry, watching it so it doesn’t burn.

Add the garlic and onion, fairly finely-chopped. Stir in the curry powder and add a little oil. Stir. Allow to swear.

Add the carrots, chopped into rounds, the potatoes, cubed, and the fresh tomatoes, quartered. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Add about half a pint of water and the tin of chopped tomatoes. Allow to simmer.

Serve with rice, poppadums and natural yoghurt.