Sunday, 26 April 2015

Fish soup

Another offering from my mother's recipe book. I don't ever remember her having cooked this. I like the specificity of the fish and am interested by the fact there are no ingredients other than fish and water (save a little butter for frying).

Postscript : I failed to see the recipe continued over the page and that there are some additional ingredients from the seventies - red and yellow food colouring anyone? And who recalls top of the milk?

1 red mullet
1 baby squid
1/4 lb prawns (unpeeled)
1/2 pound cod cheeks
Butter for frying

Prepare the fish; put all trimmings including prawn shells into saucepan with water - boil down for stock.

Cut up octopus into small pieces and fry in butter, then add some strained fish stock and simmer 'til tender. Add pieces of mullet & cod & simmer 'til just cooked. Remove cod pieces & put into blender with strained remaining stock & blend 'til creamy. Pour over fish pieces, & add peeled prawns & a little red & yellow colouring + a little top of milk. Season to taste. Heat slowly & serve with chopped parsley.




Saturday, 25 April 2015

Bon Appetit

This is a tribute to an eating house that is long closed. Bon Appetit, next to Blackfriars station, is now boarded up and has been for years, although its sign remains in part.

I recall it in the mid 1990s when I first qualified as a lawyer. By pure coincidence, the place is directly opposite the headquarters of my first ever client, Unilever. I used to buy sandwiches here when I got off the train at Blackfriars. They were the only place I know outside France to offer the wonderful Pan Bagnat.

Tuesday, 10 March 2015

Shepherd's Pie

At the outset, I accept that this is not Shepherd's Pie in that it is made with beef rather than lamb AND I cook it from raw mince rather than use the remains of the joint, which is something I rarely have anyway. But I dislike the "correct" term for this dish, Cottage Pie, which conjures up thoughts of school dinners. In any event, it seems to me slightly more attractive to think that the shepherds would not eat their own lambs...



My version is based on the splendid Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall's version in his River Cottage Meat Book...though I am not convinced that he would acknowledge his offspring.



Ingredients for "an enormous Shepherd's pie".

500 g minced beef.
A splash of olive oil.
2 onions, chopped.
2 carrots, finely chopped.
3 sticks of celery, finely chopped.
1 leek, finely chopped.
1/2 pint stock.
1/2 glass red wine.
1 tablespoon or dollop of tomato ketchup (I am keen on Tiptrees although I accept there is nothing wrong with the ingredients in Heinz).
Two dashes of Worcester Sauce.
About a kilo of mashed potato - mashed with butter and milk.
Salt.
Freshly ground black pepper.



Method:

I suggest you use a frying pan to fry the mince, a large saucepan to boil the potatoes and a larger saucepan for everything else including, later, the mince. You'll also need a suitable pie dish. Plus a potato peeler, a sharp knife (I recommend a serrated kitchen devil), a chopping board, a wooden spoon and a colander. It's worth laying out all the ingredients and utensils in advance.

Ok. Heat the oil in the largest saucepan and add the chopped onion. Allow the onion to cook very gently. Unlike HFW, I recommend against allowing it to brown. One step nearer to bitterness. Next, add the carrot and the leek. Keep going, very gently, stirring every so often.

Now, fry the mince on a relatively high heat, encouraging it not to steam or to burn but to brown. When it's cooked through, add it to the vegetables and mix everything together thoroughly. Add the ketchup and the Worcester sauce, followed by the wine and the stock, in swift succession. Again, mix it all together well. Turn the heat to its lowest setting and let the whole thing cook for around half an hour although it is forgiving and will allow you longer. Taste, add salt and pepper if needed and additional Worcester sauce and ketchup, if needed. But this is not a tomato based sauce. It is the mince and vegetables that should sing. You can also add a little water or wine if it's in danger of drying up...but you don't want excessive amounts of liquid. Think casserole rather than soup. Stir every so often.

While things are cooking, peel, chop and boil the potatoes. Mash them with butter and milk: not too much though.

Once the mince and vegetables are cooked, tip them from the saucepan into a pie dish. Then put the mashed potato on top. Several dollops plonked unceremoniously on to different parts of the pie dish...and then spread it as evenly as you can without being precious about it. Use a fork to make patterns which will brown nicely. Don't worry if the gravy at any point slops on to the potato. I think the reason this is intuitively displeasing is because it feels like planting muddy footprints on to a virgin field of snow. Once again, this dish is very forgiving. Spilt gravy will simply cause the potato to brown better. But do try to seal the edges.

If you're wanting to eat this in about half an hour, put it straight into a pre heated oven at about 200 degrees and cook for around twenty five minutes. Or, if you want to eat it later, say the next day, put it into the fridge. It will then take about 40 - 45 minutes to cook from cold. Keep an eye on it while it's in the oven. You are aiming for golden brown rather than burnt brown. When you take it out of the oven, it should be bubbling up at the sides however well you sealed it and this is a good thing. Eat.

Bolst's mango pickle goes particularly well with this as does lemon pickle. Others like Worcester sauce, ketchup, mustard or other things. My view is that in the case of Shepherd's pie, it's particularly important to cater for everyone's different tastes, condiment wise. The following idea comes from Nigel Slater. Put all relevant jars and bottles on the table including those rather suspect jars with wax paper containing mustard with honey or chilli jam that someone gave you as a present ages ago. Someone else will love it.


Thursday, 12 February 2015

Hot drink

I am often sceptical when people tell me that they enjoy experimenting with food but I have just attempted one such experiment: a mug of milk with three chunks of Thorntons butter tablet and some mixed spice (which apparently contains various sweet spices including cinnamon and coriander seed) sprinkled on top. Into the microwave for two minutes. Warm and comforting.


Sunday, 8 February 2015

Monastic sausage

One of life's frustrations is when something delicious disappears from the shelves - for good.


I have seen it happen with my favourite Turkish gherkins.


With the "Texan bar" - although I have just discovered, even more frustratingly, that they were brought back for a short time in 2005: must have missed it. I remember at the age of seven asking my mother to get me a "Texas" bar. Fortunately, when presented with the "Texan", she surmised it was the right one and brought it back. I thought she was teasing at first when she said what she'd found.


I fear a similar disappearance may happen one day with Orangina when it is replaced with Fanta orange. And with Bolst's mango pickle, which I have written about elsewhere.


But these frustrations are balanced with happier moments. I discovered on a Polish stall in Waterloo a dried sausage called "Monastic sausage". The stall holders were very elusive when I asked them what it was called in Poland and where else I could find it. Eventually, the supplies dried up and they told me variously that they made it themselves and it had not proved popular or that they could not find it anywhere. They were misleading me. I wandered into a Polish shop in Dartford (of all places) and discovered piles of it stacked on the counter. In fact, it is produced commercially by a company called "Balcerzak" and is called "Kiełbasa Polska Surowa Długodojrzewająca" - translated on one website as "Long-maturing Polish Sausage". I don't know where the "Monastic sausage" bit came from. But I now appear to have a long-term supply. I commend it.

Saturday, 31 January 2015

Breakfast comestibles

Marmalade and marmite: both breakfast products with very different ingredients and flavours but both beginning with the same four letters.

Marmalade comes from the Portuguese marmelada (quince jam) and in turn from marmelo (quince) based on the Greek melimēlon from meli (honey) and mēlon (apple). How, I wonder, did the Portugese quinces turn (seemingly via melons and apples) into Seville oranges?

Marmite comes from the early 19th century. It is a French word from the Old French marmite (hypocritical - with reference to the hidden contents of the lidded pot) which in turn derives from marmotter (to mutter) and mite (cat).

Etymologically unrelated words. But now emphatically British products: British yeast in the case of Marmite. I have read somewhere that French chefs now use Marmite in cooking. Some members of our family pronounce it marmeet as though it were the French word.

I have never, on the other hand, heard of a French chef using marmalade in cooking. My mother once invented a recipe consisting of chicken thighs baked in marmalade.

Thursday, 18 December 2014

Chorizo

Traveller's food, mouth-burningly comforting and solid.